D )   A P R I L , 1 9 4 3   - C H U ’ U H K ,   I N D I G I R K A   R I V E R

When Peter Hesselbach first arrived at Chu’uhk, the tiny Buryat settlement at the confluence of the Chibagalakh and Indigirka Rivers, he was amazed to discover that the natives had never seen white men. Wanting to make a good impression, he had apparently mystified his audience with his miraculous powers. First, with great panache he yanked out his teeth; then to even greater astonishment he pulled out an eye, producing wails and screams from the crowd. The Buryat inquired if all white men entertained these skills, and could he please remove his arms and legs. They were evidently unaware of such western niceties as glass eyes and false teeth. Many different versions of the “take-apart white devil” story spread through Buryatia.

This settlement, which lies at the river confluence mentioned above, was reached by Peter at the end of his journey down the valley. It affords by far the easiest entrance to the Mountain-ringed Kingdom of the Buryat, requiring a week’s march over low mountains. By contrast, the route taken by the REC expedition is one of the most difficult, requiring many demanding ascents up exposed, north-facing slopes. Still, it was not easy for Peter in his weakened state: “. . . my first attack of mountain sickness. A throbbing wracks my temples; my heart races at high speed only to stop for hellish pauses that seem to last for eternities. Gasping, I try to draw breath, but the thin vapors at this altitude wreak such havoc on my system that I become convinced death is imminent. I lie still all night, clenched in agony till sleep comes. To my surprise, the following morning I am fine, save for a slight burning sensation in the muscles that had contracted during the previous night’s incredible ordeal.”